Across the Hudson and into the Catskills

Type of Post: 
Best of Show
Destination: 
Olana Historic Site
Best of Show: 
Last Chance Cheese in Tannersville, NY

Olana, home of painter Frederick ChurchWe chased after the springtime sunshine and found it in the Hudson Valley. Our primary objective was the fabulous Olana, home of superstar 19th-century Hudson River School painter Frederick Church. Like the Mark Twain House in Hartford, Olana shows what can be done with money and taste, and its views of the Hudson are unparalleled. And of course, there is plenty to see and do in the Hudson Valley, which is quite reachable from most of New England except Maine and the upper reaches of NH.

Of course, being intrepid pilgrims, reaching the Hudson was not enough to satisfy our wanderlust, so we crossed the river at Rhinebeck, NY, slipped through Saugerties, and charged up Route 23a into the mountains. Church and his teacher Thomas Cole painted many famous scenes of the Catskills, especially the dramatic and justly-famous Kaaterskill Falls.

Last Chance CheeseIt really is a spectacular ride, and a rewarding one for foodies. At the top of the mountain is Tannersville, NY, a colorful little ski town (near Hunter Mountain) with some quirky shops, none quirkier than Last Chance Cheese.

We have visited Last Chance many times since first discovering it maybe 15 years ago. Over that time it has changed, notably adding a restaurant and abandoning the antiques, but it still boasts a decent selection of local cheeses (I bought four to try on Sunday) and a stellar selection of ales from New York, New England, and across the globe.

The Catskill Mountains may seem beyond the edge of the world for New England foodies, but the area is reachable, and worth the trip, especially if you come in through Woodstock on the south side, or stop at Hartmann's Kaffeehaus if you come in through Round Top from Route 23. As for me, it is hard to pass up the spectacular beauty of Kaaterskill Falls, with Last Chance Cheese at the end of the trail!