We spent Independence Day on the Lower Cape, mostly searching for and exploring a mysterious abandoned USAF base built during the cold war to watch for Soviet missiles. we had been going to the Lower Cape for decades and never knew about this site until a chance dinnertime glance noticed the top of the radar dome from the window at Bubala's in Provincetown. Our server, Angie, had grown up near there and told us about it. Naturally we had to explore.

The place is spooky. The abandoned homes of the officers and enlisted men look like something from a post-apocalypse movie.

There is nothing of interest from a foodie perspective, but extended exploration brought us to a high sea-cliff and extraordinary vistas of unspoiled beach - who knew? There is no access from the cliff top, but the view is really something; like the view from White Head on Monhegan Island, it is limitless beauty and no houses or Golden Arches.

We finally left the abandoned base and made it to Provincetown. Unlike the airbase, P-town has quite plenty to interest the foodie. Best of Show has to go to Eat-Em-Raw, a Wellfleet oysterman from Rose Oysters who had a counter set up on the sidewalk across from Glass Half Full wines (back to that in a moment). Our friendly oysterman had oysters harvested that very morning just a few miles away in wellfleet. He was opening them to order and selling for $1 apiece. I had a half a dozen before I stopped myself (we had dinner plans). They were as fresh as can be and utterly delicious!

I had been tipped to Eat-Em-Raw by the energetic and refreshingly opinionated proprietor of Glass Half Full Wines, across the street. Glass Half Full has started carrying a small selection of spirits with a very good selection of New England artisanal spirits. I was able to get a bottle of Gale Force Gin from Nantucket's 888 Distillery, and I noted that he also had Vermont's Barr Hill Gin, Greylock Gin from western Massachusetts, and Cold River Gin from Maine. He also has many vodkas and whiskeys, including the Bully Boy products from Boston.

Ultimately we had dinner at Bubala's By The Bay, which doubles as your hard-working Pilgrim's P-town office. I got there early and enjoyed a Cape Cod Blonde and worked while Lorna shopped and people-watched, until joining me for a late dinner. We lucked into a window seat in time for the July 4th fireworks and a glorious moonrise. Summer on Cape Cod is a Very Good Thing.