Dorchester isn't a scenic place, but it has a few charms of its own. Chief among them for me was the presence of GrandTen Distilling, one of the 11 makers of Artisanal Gins made in New England. I visited GrandTen to learn more about American Gin and the craft distilling movement. I had a great visit with Matthew Nuernberger, who with Spencer McMinn owns and operates the distillery.

GrandTen makes Wire Works Gin, plus Fire Puncher Vodka and Medford Rum. I am a big fan of the gin, as you can read in the link above. My visit was primarily about the gin because I have been studying gins for these pages.  

I asked about the American Gin style: is there a style? What characterizes American Gin as opposed to London Dry Gin or Navy-Strength Gin or Genever? He explained that London Dry Gin is an old, set style that is always juniper-forward, supported by other botanicals.

American gin has a freer hand with the botanicals, which explains the wide range of flavors. That's good news for cocktailians, if they know what they are getting into. Some American gins are spicier than others, or more herbal, or more floral or citrusy. A gin that works well in one cocktail might be nondescript or even unpleasant in another. I found the Wire Works to make a very good Monkey Gland and an exceptional Aviation.  For a Martini, I like it best with a softer Dry Vermouth like Dolin or Noilly Pratt.

Part of the fun of trying the new American Gins is exploring how well they work in your favorite cocktails. I hope to see the better bars and restaurants stocking multiple American craft gins to save individuals the expense of trying 12 gins to find their three favorites.

Nuernberger also showed me how he makes their Medford Rum, from the huge plastic cube-containers of raw molasses to the barrels in which it is aged.

Finally I got to try something that was not only new to me; I had never even thought about it. He is aging some Wire Works in barrels! It had an interesting flavor, complex and mellow, still obviously gin but with something new and interesting. I hope to see that one soon on store shelves!