Colonial

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Clam Pudding

Clam PuddingAnother old Plymouth favorite. One of my friends lives on Clam Pudding Road!

Steamers (Classic)

Classic SteamersThis is about the easiest of easy recipes! 

Steamers are steamed soft-shell clams, traditionally served with some dipping liquid (to remove any residual sand) and melted butter, and a refreshing summery beer. 

Cumberland Sauce

This classic sauce for cold ham is based on red currant jelly and port with brown sugar and spices. It's great for a picnic-style brunch.

Boiled Fish

Boiled Salmon with Egg SauceDon't boil the fish!

This is an old Colonial recipe, from the days before hifalutin' words for technique like "poach" and "simmer" had entered the lexicon of everyday cooks.
When you see a mention of boiled fish in an old Yankee letter or book, it refers to salmon, cod, or other large fish poached in water or in a mildly-seasoned court-bouillon. Boiling a delicate piece of fish is a sure way to make a mess of it.

The best tool is a fish poacher: an oblong stainless pot that covers two burners and is long enough to fit about a 2.5 pound fillet. The pot has an insert that you set the fillet on, so you can easily lift it out when it's finished.

Egg Sauce

Egg Sauce in a Sauce Boat and on a Poached Salmon

Egg Sauce is not the same thing as an egg-yolk-thickened sauce. Egg Sauce is an old Yankee favorite made by adding a couple of chopped hard-cooked eggs to a simple white sauce.

This homey simple sauce can be whipped up in just a few minutes if you have a hard-boiled egg in the fridge. A hard-boiled egg in its shell will keep for a week in the refrigerator, so this recipe works as a go-to recipe on a busy night.

Egg Sauce is traditionally served with "boiled" salmon or a big piece of cod (in which case the preparation is known as Cape Cod Turkey).  It is shown here starring in our Yankee Fish Dinner for June.

Boston Brown Bread

Boston Brown Bread

This is the traditional beantown accompaniment to fishcakes or baked beans. It is a sweeter descendant of the colonial "thirded bread", made of equal parts rye flour, whole wheat flour, and "indian" or cornmeal in the days when wheat was scarce in New England.

This makes a fine breakfast for today's tastes, similar to a bran muffin. It is great toasted or sliced and warmed in hot butter in a skillet.  

For a lighter flavored, molasses-free version, see Boston Blonde Bread. 

Tavern Baked Beef and Beans

Tavern Baked Beans and BeefA colonial-style recipe from before the days of molasses-sweetened nostalgia-food. This would have been made with the ubiquitous salt-beef available in barrels everywhere that there were cattle and salt. Most homes would have had salt pork (see Pork and Beans but commercial establishments and ships would have had access to beef. 

Note that sweetening with molasses would be "in-period" but I have seen no mention of it for this recipe. This recipe is rather no-nonsense,  but it is nourishing and not unpleasant. I would add dry mustard before adding any sweetening agent. The molasses does better in the Pork and Beans recipe. 

Cornbread

Fresh CornbreadThis classic favorite becomes extra-special when made with local stone-ground cornmeal. I got the recipe from Suzanne Cary Gruver's Cape Cod Cook Book.

There are different kinds of cornbread. Many restaurants today make something that to my mind is too like a corn muffin; it's too sweet, soft and spongy, and hasn't much fresh corn flavor at all.

This recipe makes a cornbread to savor with a meal. It has substance and enough flavor to complement many dishes, especially those we make in the autumn and winter months.

There are still mills around New England where you can get fresh-milled cornmeal. I made this one with meal from Dexter's Grist Mill in Sandwich, MA.

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