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Celery Stew?![]() The guests at the party hit the charcuterie hard, but the crudites not so much. When we sorted the debris after the folks had departed, we had a big bag of celery sticks too good to throw out. Annette went into research mode and came up with recipe for celery stew. I have great confidence in her culinary judgment, but celery stew? I shouldn't have worried. Braised celery is a venerable dish, and essentially that’s what this was. Warm, soft, and flavorful, the celery was no longer a workout for the jaw and was actually closer to comfort food. Slowly cooked with onion and tomato It made a delicious supper. The recipe Annette found on the web called for pancetta, but being out of that, she substituted bacon. She garnished it with a fried egg, the yolk of which ran down into the mixture like a sauce. This method is a good use of a bunch of celery that is showing its age. What does it matter if you have a bunch of stalks that are a little limp? They’re only going to get limper when you slow cook them. You get a nice meal and clean out the vegetable drawer. Now we’re on to the carrots.
Independent Fermentations
Independent Fermentations is a small operation (for now). Brewer Paul Nixon brews an eclectic assortment of seasonal ales in a barn by his home above the sea in Cedarville, near the Cape Cod Canal. ![]() IndieFerm (as it's known on Facebook) is a devoted locavore, low-footprint operation. Paul uses locally-grown hops (including his own Cascades and Nuggets, which you can see behind us in this photo) and malt from Valley Malt in Hadley, MA. Type of Artisan:
Brewer
Region:
MA-South Shore/South Coast
Highball
There are many types of highballs, including the venerable Gin and Tonic, the Moscow Mule, the Cuba Libre (and its degenerate cousin the Rum & Coke), all the various Collinses...the list goes on longer than the summer does. Made properly, this has only a jigger (an ounce-and-a-half) of liquor and the rest is ice and soda, so it's an easy way to relax on a lazy summer afternoon without getting drunk. It's not illegal to add a touch of triple sec or other liqueur and a dash of bitters, and then you unlock a whole realm of classic cocktails repurposed as summer coolers!
Pegeen Cocktail![]() I invented this for my sister at her request on the occasion of a big birthday. Like her, it is three parts Irish to one part Italian, with a little bitters to balance the natural sweetness... Her friend Lesli called it a blonde Manhattan, and that's a pretty good description. It's a summer-weight cocktail made with Irish Whiskey and Carpano Bianca Vermouth (that's a bianco vermouth, not a dry or a sweet vermouth).
Hot Summer Night Bread Pudding This is a light and refreshing version of the traditional Bread Pudding to enjoy after a summer cookout with family and friends!
Chestnuts Braised with Red Wine
The dish is a fine accompaniment for beef or some savory roast pork dishes, and it is a classic accompaniment for roast goose. Of course you could make this with fresh chestnuts, but the chestnuts in a jar work really well. You can get them at Whole Foods and sometimes at Trader Joe's and other high-end grocery stores. I get them at Ed Hyder's Mediterranean Marketplace in Worcester, or at Micucci's in Portland. Port Bistro, Kingston, MAI was excited about the opening of Port Bistro when I learned it is the sister restaurant to Sintra in Braintree. The hospitality and the food were worth the trip, but now I have only to drive to Kingston where Jenkins has taken over the space that housed La Paloma at 14 Main Street near KFC and the Purple Building. I was first impressed by the wine list, and when I remarked upon it, I was introduced to Melani St. Pierre, who put in great deal of work selecting wines for the restaurant and is proud of the result. Her title is Wine Director; she says sommelier is a masculine term. No matter your wine expertise or lack of same, your experience at Port Bistro will be enhanced if you place wine selection in her hands. ![]() Served with a square of polenta, the long island duckling was tender, juicy, and unctuous without being greasy. The spiced orange glaze was a little sweet for my taste, but not so much as to spoil the total experience. To go with it, Ms St. Pierre recommended Bedell Merlot from North Fork, Long Island, NY. 2014 - Desert Pilgrimage: Arizona and the Grand CanyonType of Post:
Beyond New England
Destination:
Arizona!
Best of Show:
Sunrise at the Grand Canyon
The Grand Canyon was our priority. Richmond and Annette, old hands at exploring the desert southwest, had told us that sunrise is spectacular, so that was the start of our plan. The only way to see the sunrise is to sleep in the park, so we stayed at the Yavapai West Lodge motel and it was fine. To make the sunrise at the Yaki Point lookout (highly recommended) we had to be up by 4:15 so we could get to the shuttle buses at the visitor center in time to get to the point. Fortunately jet lag was our friend...Arizona does not observe daylight savings time, so the three-hour difference made 4:15 seem like 7:15 to us!
Actifio Potluck - Spring BBQ
This menu was vast, as usual. I think we had 36 contributions, almost all of them home-made or made in the office (we have a pretty good kitchen!) I don't have all the recipes, but I have a lot of them: Steamed Fiddleheads
After steaming them and chilling them, you can do all sorts of things with them. They are decorative, but they have enough flavor to be the vegetable accompaniment to a significant spring meal (maybe with Shad Roe?).
Soylent
History of Chowder
Robert Cox is a robust man who looks more like a lumberjack than a scholar, but his wit, assortment of degrees, and ornamented prose belie first impressions. His recent lecture at Pilgrim Hall was full of information and humor, and its topic was chowder. Having heard it, I bought , which he co-authored with Jacob Walker. Both my grandmothers made chowder. They used salt pork, milk, potatoes, fish or clams, and served it with crackers. They seasoned it with pepper and sometimes floated a pat of butter on top. My mother made it the same way, and I’d come in wet and cold from sledding and tuck into a steaming bowl that spoke to me of family and home. Like all New Englanders, I thought this chowder had been passed down from time immemorial, and I couldn’t imagine eating it any other way. As I grew to manhood, I learned the world is not as innocent as my mother’s kitchen. In Rhode Island they leave out the milk, and in New York they add tomatoes! But these were traveler’s tales from beyond the outskirts of civilization. Now my eyes are opened. The History of Chowder is packed with information that takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the past. The authors write: “This most comfortable of comfort foods carries a subtle aftertaste of international conflict, of conquest and enslavement, of the blood and tears that made Europe imperial and shaped the modern world.” Roasted Red Onions![]() This dish is simple to prepare and delicious! It takes longer to preheat the oven than it does to cut and prepare the onions for roasting - it really is simple. These can be served hot or cold, and they are fine served cocktail-party style with toothpicks and small plates. The flavor is rich but complementary to many savories. I served these at a wine tasting event at the Old Colony Club. They went well with a good Cabernet Sauvignon and a good Merlot.
Income Tax
Try this with a citrusy gin like Plymouth Gin, or else with one of the softer New England-made American Gins like Barr Hill Gin, Karner Blue Gin, or Wire Works Gin
Peanut Butter Cookies
The texture is light and crumbly, never tough, and the toasty-peanut flavor is wonderful when they are fresh. In my opinion, this cookie does not store well, but if you make them with good ingredients that should seldom be a problem! The distinctive look could be trademarked.
An Expedition to Fall RiverType of Post:
Best of Show
Destination:
Fall River, MA
Best of Show:
Chaves Market and the wonderful Portuguese food
But there is a strong Portuguese population in Fall River, too, and there are foodie delights for the intrepid explorer. Some of them are hard to come by in places that lack a Portuguese community. That was our quarry.
Veal Chops a la Smugness
I've gotten to know the staff so I have the same camaraderie I'd get in a gym I had to pay for. I go early when the aisles are free of shoppers, and I walk briskly seven times around, which I estimate to be a mile. It's just as good as a treadmill. When I've finished the seventh lap, I get a cart and go around again.
Mexican Madras![]() Happy Day! Annette saw something on TV that told her tequila is good for you. Personally, I never pay attention to the nutritional and other health segments of the morning news, but ‘tis an ill wind…. I am ordinarily the family bartender, but I was off this morning purchasing bagels and the Sunday New York Times. When I returned Annette had gotten out the cocktail shaker and mixed up Mexican Madrases. Here’s a recipe. I don’t know if it’s the one she used or if she followed the one she found, but it looks like a good start.
Shake with ice, strain, and serve with a half orange slice. I’m not sure how much health benefit you get from one tiny ounce of tequila, but the recipe may be modified according to your conscience, your body’s need for nutritious agave, and your taste. The mere presence of breakfast cocktails improved our mood on this cold and cloudy March day. We clinked glasses, munched our bagels, and went off to our newspaper in good spirits.
Reuben, She’s Been Thinking.![]() When you’re two years old, a long winter has taken up a sizable percentage of your time on the planet; and my two-year-old grandson was ecstatic about the coming of spring. On the phone to Annette, he exclaimed, “Nannie, the grass is here! Indeed it is, and it was time for us to break out of hibernation and go to Mattapoisett for sauerkraut. I’d asked The Foodie Pilgrim if he was going to be near the famous Morse’s Sauerkraut, but the grass has not yet emerged in Waldoboro, Maine, and the Pilgrim had no immediate plans to venture that far up Route 1. Still his knowledge of the food resources of New England is encyclopedic, and he told me I could score creditable sauerkraut at How on Earth in Mattapoisett. It was a pleasant trip. The snow had melted except in sheltered places and grimy piles in parking lots. Many of the ponds had open areas where water sparkled for the first time in months. A sharp wind was blowing in from Buzzard’s Bay when we pulled into the How on Earth parking area. Hurrying inside, we found a good selection of fine New England foodstuffs, and from the refrigerator case we picked up a jar of Real Pickles Organic Sauerkraut. Corned Beef![]() This is a main component of a New England-style St. Patrick's Day corned-beef-and-cabbage dinner, a New England Boiled Dinner, and the Plymouth Succotash, as well as Corned Beef Hash and some wonderful sandwiches. This recipe is to cook and cool the beef to be used for hash or sandwiches. You can start with corning the brisket yourself with the recipe in Salt Beef, where you will also find some interesting lore about this old favorite.
Irish Whole Wheat Soda Bread
I made this one with King Arthur Irish-style flour and NH buttermilk, but the supermarket stuff makes good bread too - this is an excellent recipe. Fishcakes![]() Here's a version of the New England and Canadian Maritimes classic, often served for breakfast with Baked Beans (but they're great with fried eggs, too! You can buy fishcakes in a can. It's easier than making your own. But they're disgusting. Some restaurants, especially clamshacks, sell fishcakes. In many cases they're no better than the canned ones. Sometimes they're 9-parts potato with a hint of fish essence. These are not hard to make, and you get enough servings that it's worth your while. The mixture keeps in the fridge for some days so you can fry up a few fishcakes when you want them. For a simpler, more historical version, see Yankee Fish Cakes.
A Smashing Cocktail![]() Annette requested a drink called an apricot smash, so I got on line and looked at recipes using vodka and rye, but selected one that called for bourbon. You were supposed to muddle a fresh apricot, but there are none in the supermarket at this time of year, so I got canned apricots instead. For one drink I used four ounces of bourbon and two canned apricot halves, the juice of one lemon, and about a teaspoon of simple syrup. Recently I splurged on a nifty muddler from Crate and Barrel, but it didn't seem the thing for canned apricots, so I put the whisky, the lemon juice and the apricot halves in the blender and whizzed them up. Then I strained the mixture into a shaker and added the syrup. You can buy simple syrup at the liquor store, but it's easy to make. You stir equal measures of sugar and water in a pan and boil it until the liquid becomes clear. Put the syrup in a covered jar and store it in the refrigerator. Don't make too much because it will become moldy after a while and have to be thrown away. Always check the syrup for spots of mold before using. Gingerbread
This is good to make on a snowy winter evening when you've had just about enough of January or February and a little something special is in order, especially if it's not too complicated. Sometimes I sprinkle some sugar on top before baking it, or some chopped up crystallized ginger, but honestly it doesn't need any of that claptrap - this is a fine classic recipe for a winter's evening!
Palme d’OrFlorida is a state I associate with traffic-clogged highways lined with fast food joints, body shops, psychic readers, and strip clubs. The locals call people like me Q-Tips.
My memory reaches back to the day when waiters in French Restaurants were stiff and condescending. When you ordered, they’d repeat what you said, correcting your pronunciation. On at least one occasion I pronounced my selection properly, and a wannabe French snob got it wrong. Usually they managed to give me the feeling I’d somehow gotten in where I didn’t belong. |
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