I must have had Captain Mowatt's famous Canseaux Sauce a hundred times at Becky's Diner, where it is available for the asking. I always thought it a tad sweet, and never thought that there might be more to the story.

Then I found their tent at The South Berwick Strawberry Festival and was astonished to see the range of sauces arrayed "from mild to wild" all along a long counter. I bought three of them, but only after sampling most and I wil say it took a long time to select the three I would take home.

Here they are, with links to their fun, colorful, and occasionally risque descriptions:

• Boston Red Sauce
• Cocoloco
• Dirty Mustard
and a special sample of the Fra Diavolo sauce.