When I think of Italian cooking, trout is not the first thing that comes to mind. But Italy is a mountainous country, and especially in the north, seafood figures less prominently and freshwater fish are common. Of course, the cities are below the mountains, much closer to the sea, so you can find dishes that use both freshwater and saltwater ingredients.

This farmed trout was big enough for each of us to have a filet delicately perfumed with rosemary and sage, and then the mussels were enough to make a full dinner of it.